Pull out the fuel outlet hose from the pump, then either disconnect the high tension (HT) feed from the coil or the lead wire to the distributor's low tension (LT) terminal. This stops the engine from starting when you turn the ignition key to crank the starter. Look at the pump's outlet nozzle; good, clear streams of fuel should spray out. The pump must be fixed if the fuel flow doesn't start within three minutes, or when the cover and hose attached to it are secure. Both hoses should be unplugged. Take off the bolts holding the pump in place. Take off the thick spacer, both thin plastic seals, and then pull out the operating rod. Run your fingernail along the edges of the pump's two metal plates before you put it back together. First free the cover by loosening the central bolt, removing it and its associated gasket. Pull out the bolts on each flange side and split the pump into two parts. To replace the diaphragm and rod, follow these steps: undo the small cover plate to see the part, then release the tiny clip circling the pivot pin of the operating arm, take out the pin. Take out the arm and diaphragm/spring group. Switch out damaged parts: those found on 2002 sized pumps may replace individual valve components, but smaller capacity ones require new complete units to compensate for valve failures. You put the pump together by tightening the screws around the flange just as the operating arm rests at its lowest point. Match up the upper and lower body scratch marks again to make sure they match. Also check that the diaphragm is straight. Put on new gasket and washer under center bolt for the pump cover. Reinstall everything the same way you took it apart, but replace the thin gaskets next to the flange insulator again. Keep these gaskets at the original thickness to let the rod and arm work properly.