BMW 34116864060 Ventilated Brake Disc

Put blocks behind the car's back wheels, then put on the parking brake. When you can, turn each front wheel bolt 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Lift the car up, keep the front wheels on while you push down on the brake caliper fluid line, supporting the caliper with wire to avoid damaging the hose. Separate the brake caliper and its bracket. Detach the special bolt that needs a 6mm hex key to remove it. If the bolt is hard to loosen, use a spray lubricant to break it free, and hit it gently with an electric impact driver. Pull off the brake rotor. To free it if stuck, unscrew the bolt holding it in place about 3 turns, spray lubricant near the hub and rotor connection, put back the two wheel bolts, and hit a flat surface between them with a light blow - but don't touch the machined surface. Take out the rotor, and make sure any new rotor is not covered in protective material. Wash the hub and the brake rotor part where they touch. Spread a thin layer of anti-stick solution on them. Fasten the brake rotor with its bolt, then tighten it to 12 foot-pounds. Drive down slowly on the brake pedal until it reaches firm pressure. Start by hand-tightening the wheel bolts, slowly lower the vehicle onto the surface, and then torque each bolt into place following an X-pattern from 66 to 81 foot-pounds of force. Warm up your brakes by stopping slowly 5 times at 30 mph, letting your brakes cool down, and finishing with 5 extra stops to rub off the layers. Check the machined surface of the brake rotor for damage, replace if you find deep scars, cracks, or unevenness, or if the surface is covered in rough ridges. Look for warpage and uneven thickness in rotors; a pulsing brake pedal or steering wheel means thickness is uneven. Look at the rotors for damage while changing the other parts, because cracks and wonky shapes can make braking dangerous. Little scoring is fine, but rotors must be resurfaced or replaced when scoring or warping gets intense. Soak new rotor protection film off with the right dissolving solution before putting it in your vehicle. Measure the space between the rotor's outer edge and center hub. Keep the measurement under 0.002 inch when the rotor is separated from its job. Only coat brakes with the thinnest legal thickness when planning repairs. To inspect a brake rotor, lift the vehicle, position jacks, put lug nuts back on the tire/wheel assembly reinstalled with washers, and tighten them to 80 foot-pounds, unwrap brake pads, then look at the brake surface. With a dial indicator, measure rotor runout, keeping values under 0.004 inches; on-car brake lathe can then machine the rotor for use. Use a micrometer to measure thickness and rotor alignment. Compare the thinnest part of the rotor against the brake manufacturer's thickness requirements. If your reading is lower than the limit, change the rotor before reinstalling. Use a brake lathe to machine the rotor if its thickness differences between highest and lowest points are larger than 0.0008 inches. Replace the rotor if the lathe makes it thinner than minimum specs.

All models except M3 need you to block both front wheels while loosening the bolts on the back wheels to 1.4 turns. Best way to do this: lift and stabilize the vehicle, then take off the back wheels without touching the brake caliper hose, holding up the caliper with mechanic's wire to protect the line from harm. Before working on the brakes, take off the brake caliper and its fitting. Insert a 6mm hex socket into any of the angled, recessed hex bolts. Place penetrating oil on rusty bolts, while applying a gentle burst of impact power from a hand-held tool helps loosen them. To get the frozen brake rotor off, slide the attaching bolt 3 turns and spray penetrating oil along where the rotor meets the hub. Secure the wheel with two strong bolts turned about 10 times, then hit the straight rotor-hub face without hitting the grinding surface. When replacing, look at the rotor disk to make sure it's in good shape. Make sure any protective film is off a new rotor before putting it on. Use light anti-seizing spray to clean the hub and brake rotor surfaces, then put in the braking rotor hold-down bolt and tighten it to 12 foot-pounds force (16 Newton-meters). Check and adjust the parking brake as necessary. Each wheel goes back on and lug bolt turns by hand until the vehicle reaches the ground. The tires then make contact, and lug bolts get tightened in a cross pattern to 66-81 foot-lbs force (90-110 Nm force). Do five slow, easy stops at 30 mph (50 km/h), let the brakes cool, then make five more stops at the same speed to make sure your brakes work completely. When checking the rear brake rotor, just like the front, you use the same steps.

Begin by firmly chocking the front wheels, raising the rear of the vehicle, and securely supporting it on jackstands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel and release the parking brake.

Begin by applying the parking brake, jacking up the front of the car, and supporting it on jackstands before removing the appropriate front wheel.