Put blocks behind the car's back wheels, then put on the parking brake. When you can, turn each front wheel bolt 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Lift the car up, keep the front wheels on while you push down on the brake caliper fluid line, supporting the caliper with wire to avoid damaging the hose. Separate the brake caliper and its bracket. Detach the special bolt that needs a 6mm hex key to remove it. If the bolt is hard to loosen, use a spray lubricant to break it free, and hit it gently with an electric impact driver. Pull off the brake rotor. To free it if stuck, unscrew the bolt holding it in place about 3 turns, spray lubricant near the hub and rotor connection, put back the two wheel bolts, and hit a flat surface between them with a light blow - but don't touch the machined surface. Take out the rotor, and make sure any new rotor is not covered in protective material. Wash the hub and the brake rotor part where they touch. Spread a thin layer of anti-stick solution on them. Fasten the brake rotor with its bolt, then tighten it to 12 foot-pounds. Drive down slowly on the brake pedal until it reaches firm pressure. Start by hand-tightening the wheel bolts, slowly lower the vehicle onto the surface, and then torque each bolt into place following an X-pattern from 66 to 81 foot-pounds of force. Warm up your brakes by stopping slowly 5 times at 30 mph, letting your brakes cool down, and finishing with 5 extra stops to rub off the layers. Check the machined surface of the brake rotor for damage, replace if you find deep scars, cracks, or unevenness, or if the surface is covered in rough ridges. Look for warpage and uneven thickness in rotors; a pulsing brake pedal or steering wheel means thickness is uneven. Look at the rotors for damage while changing the other parts, because cracks and wonky shapes can make braking dangerous. Little scoring is fine, but rotors must be resurfaced or replaced when scoring or warping gets intense. Soak new rotor protection film off with the right dissolving solution before putting it in your vehicle. Measure the space between the rotor's outer edge and center hub. Keep the measurement under 0.002 inch when the rotor is separated from its job. Only coat brakes with the thinnest legal thickness when planning repairs. To inspect a brake rotor, lift the vehicle, position jacks, put lug nuts back on the tire/wheel assembly reinstalled with washers, and tighten them to 80 foot-pounds, unwrap brake pads, then look at the brake surface. With a dial indicator, measure rotor runout, keeping values under 0.004 inches; on-car brake lathe can then machine the rotor for use. Use a micrometer to measure thickness and rotor alignment. Compare the thinnest part of the rotor against the brake manufacturer's thickness requirements. If your reading is lower than the limit, change the rotor before reinstalling. Use a brake lathe to machine the rotor if its thickness differences between highest and lowest points are larger than 0.0008 inches. Replace the rotor if the lathe makes it thinner than minimum specs.